First Ascent of Muztagh Tower’s Northeast Spur

Misty conditions on the headwall. Younghusband Glacier far below.  Supplied by Anna Piunova

The Russian team of Sergey Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko, and Alexander Lange established a new route on the northeast spur of the famed Muztagh Tower in Pakistan. Read Dmitry’s first hand story.

 

Venezuela: Acopan Tepui, east face, Miss Acopan

Krajnc neogtiates the climbing of Miss Acopan high on the eastern face of Acopan Tepui. Matic Obid.

A three week adventure at the Acopan Tepui in Venezuela yields a new 7-pitch free route on the east face. Check out the trip report with photos and topo.

 

First Free Ascent of the Arwa Spire’s North Face

The north face of Arwa Spire. (1) East Ridge (first ascent). (2) Fior di Vite. (3) 2000 Cool- Parnell attempt. (4) 2000 Powell-Wills attempt. (5) Capisco. Frank Kretschmann (funst.de)

As a 23-year-old alpine guide, Roger Schäli and his partners made the first aid ascent of the Arwa Spire’s north face. A decade later, he returned to free the route with Simon Geitl, but not before an accident claimed the life of cameraman Daniel Ahnen. Read Roger’s account.

 

Horn Spire: A Remote Alaskan Needle Gets Its Second Ascent in Nearly 40 Years

The striking Horn Spire, as seen from the air. William Wacker

Horn Spire, located in Southeast Alaska, is finally repeated after nearly 40 years. Its other unclimbed ridges and faces await future attempts. Read William Wacker’s story on the climb, which involves a large cast of local heroes, repeated failures, and ultimate success.

 

California: Sequoia National Park, Angel Wings, Valkyrie. By Brandon Thau

The immense south face of Angel Wings. Dave Nettle

The first free route on the immense south face of Angel Wings, Valkyrie (V 5.12) was completed ground-up after a decade of attempts by Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, and Brandon Thau. Read Brandon’s story on the climb.

 

 

Cerro Caracoles (4,504m), Nevado Excelsior (5,773m), Pico Titan (4,263m), new routes. By Pablo Gonzalez

Lito Sánchez climbing Caracoles’ south ridge. Pablo Gonzalez

A string of exploratory first ascents in the Central Andes.

2011: Cerro Caracoles (4,504m), new route. By Pablo David González, Mendoza, Argentina
2011: Nevado Excelsior (5,773m), west face. By Pablo David González, Mendoza, Argentina
2011: Pico Titán (4,263m), east face. By Pablo David González, Mendoza, Argentina

 

Greenland: Upernavik region, Sarqarssuaq Fjord, Drowning in a Sea of Light. By Olly Sanders

(Back to: GreenlandWest Coast)

Upernavik region, Sarqarssuaq Fjord, Drowning in a Sea of Light.

By Olly Sanders, U.K.

Lee Roberts, Dave Rudkin, and I left the U.K. on July 24. Three days and four plane rides later, we arrived in Upernavik, where we were met by our local contact, Nikolas Sorenson. Our freight was delayed, so it wasn’t until the 30th that we were dropped off at the head of Sarqarssuaq Fjord on the south side of Qaersorssuaq island, ca. 30km from Upernavik…(Read More)

 

India: Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva.

(Back to: AsiaIndiaHimachal Pradesh)

Pangi Region, Shiva (6,142m), northeast ridge, The Prow of Shiva.

By Mick Fowler, Alpine Club, UK

Paul Ramsden and I had completed our research and were ready to go. Andrey Muryshev, who attempted the difficult northwest ridge of Shiva in 2010, was one of very few people to have seen the detail of our objective, and had been extremely helpful with information and photographs. In his e-mail, which arrived the month before we were due to leave, he didn’t rate our chances too highly. “Frankly I cannot imagine how you will do it. Do you mean the northeast buttress? It is 700m of climbing above the col and it is October—all the rock will be frozen. On the other hand, the ice will be scarce, as the buttress is very steep. So it will be very hard dry tooling and very hard protection. I saw your route on Siguniang. It is much easier. Still, your idea inspires me…(Read More)”

 

California: Kings Canyon National Park, Tehipite Dome, southeast face, Astro-Gil. By Scotty Nelson

(Back to: North AmericaContiguous USACalifornia)

Kings Canyon National Park, Tehipite Dome, southeast face, Astro-Gil.

By Scotty Nelson, Pullharder Alpine Club

In September 2012, Shaun Reed, Brad Wilson, and I spent two weeks establishing a new route on Tehipite Dome in Kings Canyon National Park…(Read More)


 

Oregon: The Elkhorns, Eastern Rib of Van Patten Butte, Senior Moment; The Wallowas, Traverse Lake cliff, attempt. By Matthew C. Morriss

Traverse Lake cliff. The attempted line begins up and right from the leftmost snowfield.

The Elkhorns, Eastern Rib of Van Patten Butte, Senior Moment; The Wallowas, Traverse Lake cliff, attempt. 

By Matthew C. Morriss, AAC

A review of the past 30 years of AAJs reveals only a smattering of new alpine routes in Oregon, all on Cascades volcanoes. Yet the largest walls of granite and limestone in Oregon lie to the east of the state’s rain divide. Tucked away in the glacial cirques of the Wallowas and Elkhorns of eastern Oregon are large walls and entire alpine crags waiting to be climbed….(Read More)

 
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