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Wind Rivers: Watchtower, Hay Fever

On 03.02.10, by kcordes

(Back to: Contiguous USA, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains)

Watchtower, Hay Fever.

By Ben Rosenberg, AAC

In mid-July 2008 Dave Stewart and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the east face of Watchtower. We started from camp in the Cirque and approached up the broad scree directly below the formation. Our route takes nondescript rock left of the East Gully route, near the toe of the face. After three pitches of runout 5.10 we traversed hard right to the huge left-facing dihedral that is the most prominent feature on the face. We followed the dihedral for two pitches, at 5.11 A0, until it ends at a large roof where we found an old pin [Joe Kelsey, author of Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains, adds that a fixed pin or stopper high on a route seems to be an essential ingredient of new routes in the Winds, where many routes and significant attempts have gone unrecorded—Ed.] From here we…. (read more)

Denbor Brakk, south ridge to south tower

On 03.02.10, by dmacdonald

(Back to: Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley)

Denbor Brakk, south ridge to south tower.

By Clint Estes, American Alpine Club

“Not even the American ambassador to Pakistan is getting past these gates. Closed means closed!” These are the words that welcomed us to the Kondus Valley of Pakistan…or just short of it. Months earlier, Matt Hepp and I had applied for a “special permit” to explore unclimbed granite towers within this disputed territory of northern Pakistan. With the help of our local contact, Zafar Iqbal, and due to a humanitarian component of our expedition, we acquired clearances from all the necessary agencies. But even with official documents in hand and a local parliamentarian at our backs, a newly appointed brigade commander pulled the finely woven carpet out from under us. During the week of our permit dispute, Zafar guided us to a number of mountain villages in need of basic services. Thanks to a Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant from the American Alpine Club, plus the help of the generous community in Ouray County, Colorado, we were able to teach villagers in Hushe and Kande how to quickly construct sturdy, heatable post-earthquake and landslide shelters out of simple materials…. (read more)

Muzkol Range, Zartosh (6,128m)

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Tajikistan, Pamir)

Muzkol Range, Zartosh (6,128m).

By Adam Thomas, Alpine Club

In August, Jock Jeffrey, Graham Rowbotham, Simon Woods, and I arrived in the Muzkol Range. We wished to make the first ascent of Zartosh, a peak that had been attempted in the late 1990s and 2000 by commercial expeditions organized by EWP, a UK outfit. They had made three attempts via the northwest face from the col below neighboring White Pyramid and a fourth, in 1999, by the spectacular north face, which however ended in tragedy…. (read more)

Taghia: Tagoujimt N’Tsouiant, Cosmic Roof

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Africa, Morocco, Taghia)

Tagoujimt N’Tsouiant, northeast face, Cosmic Roof.

By Andrej Grmovsek, Slovenia

At the end of April, Luka Krajnc, Alenka Lukic, Miha and Milena Praprotnik, and my wife Tanja and I, accompanied by Moroccan climber Jonathan, traveled to Taghia village, situated in an incredible canyon landscape of the High Atlas. Snowy peaks, green river valleys, traditional local life, vast houses of stone and mud, and transportation provided by mules and donkeys made us feel we were in the Himalaya, not Africa. The first afternoon saw us running to the nearest wall, and in the next 20 days we climbed meter after meter, route after route. Formations above the village rise to an altitude of more than 3,000m, and the region has more than 10 walls over 800m high. There are more than 100 routes of all difficulties. We climbed a number of excellent routes, both easy and hard…. (read more)

Stovelen, various icefalls.

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Lyngen Peninsula)

Stovelen, Northern Lights; various icefalls.

By Philippe Batoux, France (translated by Todd Miller)

April 2008: I’m eating dinner with Benoît Robert, who has just returned from a skiing and sailing trip to the Lyngen Alps. He shows me his pictures of Stovelen, a steep 850m face rising straight out of the sea and laced with thin lines. I’m immediately intrigued and must go there. There are so many first ascents to be made on that face, so the project is born. I log on to Google Earth. The region seems perfectly designed for the formation of ice climbs—cliffs topped by snow slopes. The first obstacle is the cost. For a Frenchman, Norwegian prices are exorbitant. The price of renting a boat is equivalent to about six months’ salary. But, despite the cost, eventually greatly reduced by our partners Millet and Petzl, there was no problem finding people who wanted to come along. I put together a team primarily of guides and aspirants,…. (read more)

Jabal Kawr, Jabal Misht, Amqah Tower, Jabal Nakhus

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Middle East, Oman, Western Hajar)

Jabal Kawr, M’Seed Rappers, Anhydrous Living; Jabal Misht, Vultures’ Keep; Amqah Tower; Jabal Nakhus, Hand Grater.

By Paul Knott, New Zealand

During late December 2009 and early January 2010, Graham Rowbotham and I completed five new routes on the exotic limestone of the Western Hajar. Starting on the southwest face of Jabal Kawr near M’Seeb hamlet, we climbed an old watercourse on the shallow buttress immediately left of the Kawr Tower. Some sources record this as the line of the 1984 route National Day Climb (500m, D-), but I had concluded after a visit in 2007 that that route likely took an easier line much farther left (AAJ 2008, p.283). Nevertheless we found several rusty pitons on the opening pitches, and immediately below a capping overhang a hawser-laid cord around a tree and another peg with an old Joe Brown carabiner. An awkward, cam-protected traverse on friable rock allowed us to continue, and we found no further signs of passage…. (read more)

Jabal Asala, Lulu

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Middle East, Oman, Western Hajar)

Jabal Asala, Lulu.

By Pascal Trividic, France

During our two-week stay in Oman, Marc Kuhn and I climbed one possible new route on the north side of Jabal Asala. Initially we wanted to repeat Petit Journée (D+ F5/5+, Frédéric and Magali Salle), but we had no proper route description and only a photo of the face. We found ourselves too far right of the route. (We now think it is on a different face.) The first 100m were a system of easy ledges (3) followed by a compact black slab. We roped up above the slab and left a sling through a thread at the first belay. The next four (50m) pitches, over slabs with cracks, were F5+ and led to a series of overhangs, below which we traversed left (60m, 6a/b, the crux)…. (read more)

Peak ca 6,000m, SW face; Jiazi, W face

On 03.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Peak ca 6,000m, southwest face, attempt; Jiazi (6,540m), west face, not to summit.

By Pascal Trividic, France

In 2008, during an expedition to the Minya Konka Range (AAJ 2009, pp 350-352), Sébastien Moatti and I climbed a nameless summit of 5,200m in the Tshiburongi Valley north of Riuchi Gongga. While making this ascent, I noticed a towering granite wall rising from just beyond the base of the Tshiburongi Glacier. With its image burned into my mind, I returned in 2009 to tackle it with French guides Pierre Labbre, Rémi Sfilio, and Baptiste Rostaing-Puissant. We established camp on October 3 at the foot of the Tshiburongi moraine. This would be our base for the next 22 days…. (read more)

Patagonia: Cerro Condor, first ascent, and other climbs and exploration

On 02.28.10, by kcordes

(Back to: Argentina/Chile, Central Patagonia)

Cerro Condor, first ascent, and other climbs and exploration.

By Christian Steidle, Chile

In mid-September, near the end of calendar winter, a group of 17 students and Jose Luis Troncoso, Pedro Binfa, and I, instructors from Patagonia Alpine Guides, mounted an expedition to several valleys, glaciers, and peaks that had had few, if any, visits and about which there was little information. Spring took an extra month to arrive, with furious winter conditions persisting…. (read more)

Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m), northwest face direct, attempt.

On 02.28.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains)

Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m), northwest face direct, attempt.
By Christine Pae, Korea, and Peter Jenson-Choi, Corean Alpine Club and AAC

Three Korean climbers, Ahn Chi-young, Heo Young-cheol and Yun Young-Joon, from the Wand Alpine Club attempted the northwest face of Grosvenor from March 31 to April 21. They retreated from ca 5,600m in the central couloir that leads directly to the summit. This was the line attempted in spring 2003 by Andy Cave and Mick Fowler, who, …. (read more)

Siguniang, The Free Spirits

On 02.28.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains)

Siguniang (6,250m), south face, The Free Spirits.

By Yan Dongdong, China

From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the main peak of Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). In December 2008 the Chinese Ultimate Expedition attempted this line using fixed rope and reached 5,600m. Zhou and I were on that expedition. In February 2009 we made another attempt, this time alpine style, reaching 5,950m. Here Zhou was trying to climb the upper part of the icefall right of the central couloir, when it collapsed.

For our third attempt we again climbed alpine style, starting from Rilong on November 23 with sacks weighing less than 15kg…. (read more)

Kyrgyzstan: Pik Plaza (4,912m); Pik Granitsa (5,370m).

On 02.28.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too)

Pik Plaza (4,912m), northwest face, Z-K; Pik Granitsa (5,370m), north face, Nordic Walking.

By Rafal “Waldorf” Zajac, PZA (Poland)

Inspired by impressive photographs of Pik Granitsa, provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006), Michal Kasprowicz, Wojtek Ryczer, and I attempted peaks around the head of the Fersmana Glacier in the central section of the Western Kokshaal-too. We were aware that with limited time and finances our chances of success were modest, but we took the risk in order to have an adventure…. (read more)

Everest, southwest face, Park’s Korean Route

On 02.27.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Everest (8,850m), southwest face, Park’s Korean Route.

By Christine Pae, Korean Alpine News, with additional material from Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal

At 3 p.m. on May 20, Jin Jan-chang, Kang Ki-seok, Shin Dong-min, and Park Young-seok stepped onto the summit of Everest, having completed a new route up the southwest face. This is the first new route climbed by Koreans on the mountain and their third attempt on this line, which lies left of the 1982 Soviet route…. (read more)

Russian, Slovenian Translators Needed

On 02.08.10, by dmacdonald

The American Alpine Journal is seeking volunteer translators to help produce the 2010 edition. This year, we particularly need help translating stories from Russian and Slovenian. Native English speakers and experienced climbers are preferred, but any person fluent in both English and these foreign languages may be able to help. Translators are needed for both short and long articles.

If you’d like to help out and be an essential part of the AAJ’s 80-year-old tradition, please contact the AAJ editors.

1994: Pik 4,810m, east face, free Korean route and climbing history

On 02.08.10, by jharlin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin)

Pik 4,810m, east face.

By Peter Jensen-Choi, Korea

Previously unrecorded outside Korea, but an important event in the history of climbing in the Karavshin, was a new route, climbed free, on the giant east face of Pik 4,810m (Boston) above the Ak-su Valley. On July 17, 1994, Koreans Choi Byeong-gi and Shin Dong-seok started up the face seven or so meters to the right of the Sytnik route and climbed 25 pitches to the summit, at 5.10c. The two bivouacked at three-quarters height in the “Bomb Shelter” and reached the top the following afternoon…. (read more)

View from Minya Konka

On 02.05.10, by lgriffin

Oil painting of view looking more or less north from summit of Minya Konka. (A) Grosvenor (6,376m, first ascent in 2003 via northwest face to gain southwest ridge—left skyline). (B) Peak 6,206m (unclimbed). (C) Peak 5,603m (N 30°36′15″, E 101°54′03″). (D) Jiazi (6,540m; first ascent, in 1982, gained snowy south ridge, facing camera, via west face to left). (E) Peak 6,134m (climbed in 2009). (F) Lotus Flower Mountain (5,704m, N 30°16′07″, E 101°57′48″). (G) Peak 6,130m (unclimbed). (H) Peak 6,130m (unclimbed). (I) Edgar (6,618m, climbed in 2001 by snowy west ridge falling toward Peak 6,130m). (J) Part of Lamo-She Massif. A photo of this painting by Y Tanaka was supplied by Tamotsu Nakamura. (read more)

Peak 6,134m, Carte Blanche

On 02.05.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Peak 6,134m, Carte Blanche.

By Alexander Ruchkin, Russia

Mikhail Mikhailov and I planned to be in Sichuan by mid-March. Our goal was the southeast face of Edgar (E Gongga, 6,618m), a large, steep, mixed granite wall. However, at the last minute the Chinese authorities canceled our permit because of the 50th anniversary celebrations in Tibet. Fortunately, a month later China reopened its doors, and it was not too late to continue with our project. We flew to Chengdu, traveled easily by road to Moxi on the east side of the Minya Konka Range and walked for only three hours with horses up the Yangzigou Valley to an altitude of 3,150m. “Base camp is here”, said the horsemen, and, pointing vaguely to the north as they set off for home, added, “and your mountain is somewhere there.” We were also told that Koreans had climbed Edgar, when we thought it was still virgin…. (read more)

Orvin Fjella, various ascents

On 02.05.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Antarctica, Queen Maud Land)

Orvin Fjella, various ascents.

By Christoph Höbenreich, Austria

The first Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land comprised Karl Pichler, Paul Koller and me. As an IFMGA qualified mountain- and skiguide, geographer and polar explorer I was lucky enough to initiate, organize and lead this outstanding expedition, which was my 11th polar expedition so far. Our goal was to ski east from the well-known Ulvetanna Group in the Fenriskjeften to the Holtedahlfjella, Kurzefjella, and Conradfjella, where we hoped to climb virgin summits. In November we flew from Cape Town to Novo Airbase by ALCI-Iljushin Il-76 and from there were lifted by Twin Otter to our starting point near Holtanna base camp. Our route, traversing some of the most spectacular rock and ice scenery in the world, was challenging. On the way we climbed 15 summits, of which 11 were first ascents…. (read more)

Do you know India’s Miyar Valley?

On 02.02.10, by jharlin

Andrej Gmorvsek climbing Lufoo Lam on Castle Peak in India's Miyar Valley, from his report in the 2008 AAJ. Tanja Gmorvsek

In preparation for a feature article on India’s Miyar Valley (to be published in the 2010 AAJ), we are compiling all the historical reporting from past AAJs and placing them in the Miyar Valley section of the AAJ Online (recent years are still incomplete).

We’re also reaching out to climbers who’ve been there and who might be willing to help tell us, a) which routes are missing, b) the names of peaks, and c) make Google Earth placemarks for these peaks. Please let us know if you’d like to participate. And thanks from Lindsay and John!

Yangmolong (6,066m), attempt

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan

Yangmolong (6,066m), attempt.

By Dave Wynne-Jones, Alpine Club

In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yangmolong (AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore the northern approaches. We traveled up the Sanchu River valley and stayed at lower Sanglong Xi, before setting up base camp on the riverside east of Yangmolong, at an altitude of 4,000m. The local people identified the expedition as a suitable target for extortion, which became more serious following several thefts; binoculars, food, a stove, trekking poles, etc were stolen. The binoculars were eventually “ransomed.” The police were summoned but tacitly admitted they were unlikely to obtain statements from the local community. For the duration of our time at base camp the support team slept virtually on top of remaining stores and was forced to hire “camp guards” from among the more law-abiding locals…. (read more)

Koh-i-Beefy (ca 5,400m)

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

Koh-i-Beefy (ca 5,400m).

By Joel Fiddes, U.K.

While working in Afghanistan with development projects, I was constantly impressed by the beauty of the Hindu Kush and excited about its climbing potential. Being involved with projects that attempted to promote sustainable development for poor mountain communities, I was frustrated that insecurity in the region was stopping what could surely be a thriving mountain tourist industry, of great benefit to the local economy. Economic development is desperately needed in a region where roughly 80 per cent of young men leave their homes and families to pursue cash incomes overseas, often taking great risks to cross international boundaries illegally. A trek in 2008 to the ruggedly beautiful Wakhan Corridor made me realize the huge potential offered by this one hidden corner of Afghanistan, as an “adventure holiday” destination for those who like to walk the slightly wilder side of life…. (read more)

Schweitzerland: Tupilak, Etc.

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, East Coast Greenland, Schweizerland)

Tupilak, south face of east ridge, Cake Walk; Duck Walk Wall, Via Nossnoj; Ravtanna; Whiskey Pillar, Unknown Expectations.

By Krister Jonsson, Sweden

During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. We left Sweden in the first week of June and flew to Kulusuk via Iceland. Our food, climbing equipment, skis, and camping gear weighed 105kg, and the flight would have been very expensive if I’d not managed to negotiate a deal with the airline for free baggage. From Kulusuk we flew to a base camp on the September 16 Glacier, southeast of the summit of Tupilak. We’d expected to melt snow but found a stream, which saved much fuel and time. During our first days we reconnoitered and climbed a small peak east of camp called Schartenspitze (1,720m). It was an easy alpine climb, which someone had been on before, as we found a piton and sling though no other signs of traffic elsewhere on the mountain. [Schartenspitze (1,720m) has been climbed by various lines, including difficult Italian and Austro-British rock routes on its south face.] We descended snow slopes easily to our skis, and then had several days of snowfall. Our next goal was Tupalik. We wanted to climb the north face, but there was too much snow, so we opted for a line on the south face…. (read more)

Meru Central Shark’s Fin attempt.

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Uttarankhand (Uttaranchal), Western Garhwal, Gangotri)

Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt.

By Andrej Grmovsek, Slovenia

At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I traveled to Gangotri, hoping to climb the infamous and still virgin Shark’s Fin on Meru Central. This line has already repulsed more than 20 expeditions, many of them strong teams. However, in 2008 Anker, Chin, and Ozturk reached a point just 150m below the summit, spending 20 days on the wall climbing in capsule style (AAJ 2009). Assisted by beta from Anker’s team, we planned to climb fast, light, and in alpine style. After reaching base camp at Tapovan, we used unsettled weather to prepare advance base, acclimatize on the lower slopes of Shivling, and study the face…. (read more)

Melanphulan (6,573m), north face (not to summit)

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Melanphulan (6,573m), north face (not to summit).

By Wojtek Kozub, PZA (Poland)

Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I from the Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above the Nare Valley. During our first two weeks we acclimatized by trekking from base camp in the village of Pangboche (3,900m) to the foot of the face, where we established an advanced base at 5,100m, and then made two trips to Lobuje East. On the first we reached the so-called False Summit (ca 6,000m, PD). On the second Michalek and I continued on the exposed east ridge to the rarely visited Main Summit (6,119m, D+). This ridge, between the two summits, took 4½ hours and was quite risky due to dangerous cornices. We then rested five days at base camp, before climbing Melanphulan’s north face in a round trip of five days from advanced base…. (read more)

Keketuohai reconnaissance.

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang)

Keketuohai reconnaissance.

By Dennis Gray, Alpine Club

Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia and 600km north-northeast of Urumqi. For three years I have attempted to travel to the area on the recommendation of non-climbing friends in China. In autumn I was finally successful and discovered a wealth of granite towers and walls that have yet to be visited by rockclimbers. I was told that there are 108 granite peaks here, and I estimate rock faces to reach a height of ca 300m, though I only saw part of the area. These walls are situated along the gorge of the Iyrtish River, and some reach the valley floor. Of all the valleys I have seen during world travels, Keketuohai compares closest to Yosemite, and locals assured me that no one has ever climbed there. Spring and autumn would be the best seasons: summer is just too hot, and in winter the temperatures regularly fall to -40°C and lower; it is one of the coldest places in China. While there is certainly no El Cap or Half Dome, the volume of rock is possibly greater than Yosemite, and there are also many good boulders in the valley bottom…. (read more)

Qilian Mtns, Kangze’gyai (ca 5,800m).

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Haixi Autonomous Prefecture, Qilian Mountains)

Kangze’gyai (ca 5,800m), west face.

By Huang Zonghua, China

Kangze’gyai (a.k.a.Tuanjiefeng), the highest peak in the Qilian Mountains, is located in Tianjun County within the Haixi Autonomous Prefecture of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau. From the town of Xining it took Li Yong, Yuan Wei, and me three days to reach base camp northeast of Hala Lake. We arrived on October 4. While Yuan remained to take care of camp, Li and I made the first ascent of Kangze’gyai’s west face and south ridge in a three-day round trip…. (read more)

Lopchin (Kangri Garpo II)

On 02.01.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Tibet, East Tibet, Kangri Garpo Mountains)

Lopchin (Kangri Garpo II).

By Tatsuo “Tim” Inoue, Japan

In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China University of Geosciences (Wuhan, CUG) made the first ascent of Kangri Garpo II (KG II, 6,703m on old Soviet maps, 6,805m GPS). Lying a little northwest of Kangri Garpo I or Ruoni (Bairiga, 6,882m), KG II is the second highest summit in the Eastern Kangri Garpo mountains, and the only one of more than thirty 6,000m peaks to have been climbed…. (read more)

Siguniang National Park permit issues

On 01.26.10, by jharlin

The Barbarian (middle left) from the west. Pat Goodman

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains)

Siguniang National Park’s new permit challenges.

By Pat Goodman, AAC

[Editor’s note: Pat Goodman won a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC. This report on his permit frustrations in October 2009 is reprinted from the AAC’s trip reports.] …David Sharratt and I were standing at the lavish entrance station to the Shuangqiaogou, in Siguniangshan National Park, Sichuan Province, China—the Chinese alpine equivalent to Yosemite Valley. We had left the U.S. on September 25 with the intention of establishing a new route on unclimbed Peak 5592, aka Seerdengpu, the Barbarian, or a host of other disconcerting names. The Chinese man in the black sports coat had told our taxi driver to take us back to Rilong (about 35 minutes) and get the proper paperwork from the Sichuan Mountaineering Association (SMA). A bit confused, Dave and I reluctantly got back in the van….. (read more)

Zion, Streaked Wall, Wet Stone Wall & Lord Helmet

On 01.24.10, by kcordes

(Contiguous USA, Utah)

Zion National Park, Streaked Wall, Wet Stone Wall.

By Nathan Brown

This high-adventure route climbs through the site of the seasonal flash waterfall on the right side of the wall. Ryan Frost, Joe French, and I stole a few precious days (October 9-13) from our busy schedules to race up the wall. The climbing was generally hard (1,700′, VI 5.10 A4), with lots of difficult nailing, some technical hooking, run-out free climbing… (read more)

For more information on the Wet Stone Wall, read Ryan Frost’s entertaining report in the Alpine Briefs, reprinted here: At mid-height on our new Zion wall route, we discovered a huge ledge. We unfurled pirate flags and settled in with our camp stoves and travel speakers. Although we were giving snide or evocative …. (read more)

Zion National Park, Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord Helmet (9 pitches, VI 5.9 A4) over 11 days in May, spread over two trips. They drilled about 60 holes (including belay anchors), mostly on the final two pitches.

Zion National Park, Sentinel, Red Chamonix Ridge

On 01.21.10, by kcordes

(Contiguous USA, Utah)

Zion National Park, Sentinel, Red Chamonix Ridge.

By Nathan Brown

This incredibly bad idea originated years ago on spring break, when some friends and I got in way over our heads on Rodeo Queen. We were freezing our butts off and noticed this amazing gendarmed ridge on the Sentinel, with Birdbeak Spire being the ridge’s most prominent tower.

It took a few years for memories of the choss to fade, but on April 5, 2008, Joe French, Zack Lee, and I cast off with two packs, a big rack of birdbeaks, down coats, and not enough water. We left the car at 5 a.m., and Joe led the first block. Around pitch 5 or 6 Zack and I heard the dreaded rumble of big rockfall. Down the fall line came a 5′x5′x5′ boulder, but no yelling…and the rope kept going up. WTF? We got to Joe, who nonchalantly explained that he’d mantled onto the thing and had to jump off when it started to go…. (read more)

Tengi Ragi Tau, by J. Corominas

On 01.18.10, by lgriffin

(Nepal, Central Nepal, Rolwaling Himal)

Tengi Ragi Tau, south ridge, attempt.

By Jordi Corominas, Spain

Oriol Baro and I arrived in Nepal on September 11 without firm plans, only pictures in the pocket. We acclimatized in the Khumbu, ascending the trekking peak Parchamo (6,279m). From here we saw an interesting wall; the south face of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m), which rises from the Tesi Laptsa pass (5,750m) on the well-known trekking route from Khumbu to Rolwaling. The weather was generally bad, so we made our base at a lodge in Thame (3,800m). Every time the sun came out, we had to climb nearly 2,000m to reach the foot of the face…. (read more)

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Big Island, North Shore

On 01.18.10, by kcordes

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Big Island, North Shore.

By Topher Donahue

In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+) a new route on the northwest face of the Big Island. The Big Island is a huge flat-topped formation off Cross Fissures Overlook. The climb follows an invisible line on excellent rock with sustained difficulty, similar in character to Eldorado Canyon. Be looking for a pile of white rocks amid the black, marking the start of the North Shore. The route begins in thin cracks up improbable-looking rock, with good but challenging protection. Ten pitches to the summit, a 60m rappel into a notch, and two easy pitches to Cross Fissures Overlook finishes the adventure. (read more)

Zion NP, Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald

On 01.15.10, by kcordes

(Back to: Contiguous USA, Utah)

Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald.

By Brian Smoot

In November Ryan Frost and I climbed Cracking the Emerald (IV/V 5.10 C1), a steep, new, six-pitch route on the southwest face of Mt. Majestic in the Emerald Pools area. We ascended a striking corner near the center of the face, with dark rock on the right, lighter rock on the left. Part way up the corner is a roof, split by a one-inch crack. The climbing was mostly hand-and-finger cracks, with clean aid climbing and ledges at every belay…. (read more)

Asan Timofeev Route FFA

On 01.12.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin)

Asan (4,230m), northwest face, Timofeev Route, first free ascent.

By Nina Caprez, Switzerland

In August, we made a trip to the Karavshin, beginning our adventure in Moscow on a train to Bishkek. It was a four-day, 3,700km journey with time for reading, playing cards, and enjoying the beautiful Russian, Kazakh, and Kyrgyz landscapes…. After flying to Batkin and continuing by road, we trekked three days to reach base camp in the Kara-su, where we found other expeditions, mostly Russian and Ukrainian. We wanted to open a new free route on the 900m northwest face of Asan and spotted a potential line in the middle of the wall. However, after two pitches we retreated. As one of the Russians later explained, all possible routes on this wall have been climbed; away from existing lines the rock is shit. But the man gave us good advice on possibilities for free-climbing established routes, so we changed our objective to the Timofeev Route…. (read more)

Mulanje Massif: Chambe; lower Eastwood-Howell Route FFA

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Africa, Malawi, Mulanje Massif)

Chambe, west face, Nkhalango Khoswe; lower Eastwood-Howell Route, first free ascent

By Joe Forrester, AAC

Situated south of Tanzania and west of Mozambique, Malawi is a small country in southern Africa best known for its lake of the same name. A year ago Jeremy Roop and I had stumbled across a website describing a half-mile-long, 5,500′ wall on the west face of Chambe, one of many peaks comprising the Mulanje Massif (9,850′). The wall was described as being broken after 2,000′ by a large, broad jungle terrace, above which was an additional 3,500′ wall. After reading the 1988 Frank Eastwood guidebook and firsthand accounts by two South African climbers, Alard Hufner and Mark Seuring, who had climbed on the west face in 1997, we decided it warranted further exploration. We found accounts of only two routes on the lower face and two on the upper face, three of which were pioneered by Eastwood in the late 1970s. We felt sure that we could find a new route to the top, preferably to the left of the Eastwood Route on the upper wall…. (read more)

Mayer Kangri & Jomo Ri massifs, Mayer Kangri I East (6,053m)

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Tibet, Central Tibet, Chang Tang)

Mayer Kangri and Jomo Ri massifs, reconnaissance, Mayer Kangri I East (6,053m)

By Janusz Majer, Poland

On September 23, 2008, Grzegorz Chowla and I flew from Kathmandu to Lhasa intending to reach the Mayer Kangri Massif on the Chang Tang plateau. As far as we could ascertain, these isolated mountains remained unexplored. Although the highest peak (6,266m, N 33°24’, E 86°46’) is called Mayer Kangri I on contemporary Western maps of Tibet and on Chinese road maps, it is referred to as Bonvalet Peak on Russian maps. Frenchman Gabriel Bonvalet was the first foreign traveler to see the mountain, during his journey through the Chang Tang and the central Arka Tagh in 1889-90, and the name Bonvalet Peak is also used on the map in Sven Hedin’s book Trans-Himalaya (1909). (read more)

Tegerman Su & eastern Aq Su (Little Pamir)

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Afghanistan, Pamir)

Tegerman Su Valley and eastern sector Aq Su Valley (Little Pamir), exploration

By Bartek Tofel, Poland

The far eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor has never seen many foreign visitors. During the Afghan climbing boom of the 1960s and 70s it was too remote and access too difficult to draw major attention, with high virgin peaks available two hours’ drive from Ishkashim. Now, when most peaks in the High Hindu Kush have been climbed, it’s worth re-examining this eastern region. Apart from being home to Kirghiz nomads, the area also hosts three interesting ranges: Lupsuq Hindu Kush, Pamir-i-Wakhan, and Kohe Aq Su. These mountains have remained almost untouched by alpinists, and more than 400 peaks above 5,000m await first ascents. Climbing one and gathering more information for future expeditions was my goal…. (read more)

Malaysia: Dragon’s Horns, west face

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Australasia, Malaysia, Tioman Island)

Dragon’s Horns, west face, Beckwith-Traver Route

By Steve Beckwith, U.K.

On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective was the first ascent of the west face of Dragon’s Horns (Bukit Nekek Semekut), a big wall rising from the canopy of the rainforest on the south coast of the island. The Horns (693m) are two granodiorite towers and, according to legend, are the resting place of a mythical Chinese princess who decided to stop there while flying to her prince in Singapore. When seen from the west, the southeast arête shows a distinct nose, mouth, and forehead, presumably forming her face. Getting to the closest village, Mukut, proved straightforward though time-consuming…. (read more)

Jebel Tadrarate, southwest face, Raum der Wünsche

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Africa, Morocco, Taghia)

Jebel Tadrarate, southwest face, Raum der Wünsche.

By Rüdiger Helling, Germany

During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. The wall looked simply perfect, yet large and demanding. It was obvious we had to return in 2009. We had left some of our equipment, including bolts, at Mohammed’s gîte (village guest house) in Zaouiad-Ahansal, so this time we had no problem with excess baggage on the flight. However, reaching Taghia gave unforeseen problems, due to the long, cold winter. Even by April the main pass to Zaouiad-Ahansal was still closed by deep snow, and the river crossings on the trek were difficult. We found much snow in the deep canyons and experienced a cold start to our climbing… (read more)

Siguniang (6,250m), northwest face, Bloody Sunset

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains – Siguniang National Park)

Siguniang (6,250m), northwest face, Bloody Sunset.

By Andrey Muryshev, Russia

…On October 5 the Irkutsk team of Evgeny Bashkirtsev and Denis Veretenin, with the team of Vladimir Molodozhen from St Petersburg and Valery Shamalo, Denis Sushko, and I from Moscow, started up the northwest buttress. The aim was to climb directly this steep rock pillar right of the 2002 Fowler-Ramsden route, the Inside Line (ca 1,100m, WI6). While our four-man team took the only obvious crack system that extends the height of the face, the guys from Irkutsk began 100m to the left. [Editor's note: They probably followed the line tried in 2005 by Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear, and Stoney Richards, the only party to have previously attempted this 900m buttress. The buttress tops out a little below 6,000m, where it joins the right-slanting snow ramp of the Inside Line.]… (read more)

Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahaul)

Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak.

By David Bingham, U.K.

We arrived in Delhi during mid-September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village of Darcha on the well-used Manali-Leh military road. Three short days of trekking along the Jankar Nala, northwest of Darcha, got us to base camp (4,300m) in a dry, dusty valley west of the river. Our aim was to attempt peaks a little east of the well-known mountain in this area, Gangstang (6,162m), but our primary objective was Peak 6,184m, a summit previously tried by Japanese in 1999 and 2003, and again in 2008 by an expedition organized by the guide Martin Moran, who also organized our trip. The 2008 expedition attempted the south-southeast ridge, reaching a height of 5,850m, but was stopped by unusually high snowfall…. (read more)

2009: Western Hajar, Jabal Nakhus, east face, F-Sharp; Jabal Dhawi, west ridge.

On 01.11.10, by jharlin

(Middle East, Oman)

Western Hajar, Jabal Nakhus, east face, F-Sharp; Jabal Dhawi, west ridge.

By Joe Sambataro, AAC

Ian Gough organized a trip to Oman in January 2009, after learning about its limestone peaks from Paul Knott, another local of Christchurch, New Zealand. Paul produced an ultimatum: either buy and ship gear to him from the U.S., or join him on a Middle Eastern adventure. After some exploratory cragging on Wadi an Nakhur’s 1,000m canyon walls and an attempt on Jabal Misht, we discovered two major desert limestone new-route possibilities by accident, while touring the Western Hajar. A rental sport-utility vehicle and the guidebook Oman Off-Road, proved invaluable in getting around the country…. (read more)

Disappearing Dome, Do It Don’t Spew It

On 01.08.10, by kcordes

(Contiguous USA, California, High Sierra)

Disappearing Dome, Do It Don’t Spew It.

By Jerry Anderson, AAC

On September 9 my daughter Lynnea, my wife Sigrid, and I completed a new route on 1,100′ Disappearing Dome, in the San Joaquin River gorge. Although this is a steep, prominent formation, it has only one other reported route, done over 30 years ago and more than a half mile away (Memphis Blues, IV 5.11c, Lawrence-McCabe-Stoddard, 1978). (read more)

Mt. Balchen, Alchemy Ridge

On 01.06.10, by jharlin

(Alaska, Hayes Range)

Mt. Balchen, Alchemy Ridge.

By Samuel Johnson, AAC

When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a willing partner in fellow Fairbanks climber Matt Klick. At home in Fairbanks, we waited two days to fly in to a gravel strip at the base of the northwest ridge of Mt. Hayes in Rob Wing’s Super Cub. From the base of Hayes, we walked seven miles to our base camp in the Hayes basin at 6,500′. After arriving in base camp, we did some recon and made plans to attempt the north ridge of Mt. Balchen as our first objective. Little did we know, it would be the only route we would attempt, due to bad weather, and we would receive only five hours of clear weather while on route. Of our 14 days from June 10–24, 12 were bad weather…. (read more)

SE Ren Land, Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak, Small Lion

On 12.24.09, by lgriffin

(Greenland, East Coast Greenland)

Southeast Ren Land, Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak, Small Lion

By Martin Fickweiler, The Netherlands

Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the Netherlands, supported by the Dutch Alpine Club, visited Southeast Ren Land from August 8-30, operating from a base camp at the head of Skillebugt Inlet…. (read more)

Broad Peak, Southwest Face

On 12.18.09, by dmacdonald

Broad Peak, Southwest Face, new route to 6,800m.

By Ramin Shojaei, Arash Mountaineers Club, Iran

Our group of 10, with Kiomars Babazadeh as leader and me as climbing leader, started toward Broad Peak on June 23. Our goal was the first new route in the Himalaya by Iranian climbers.

Mt. Ritter, West Arête

On 12.14.09, by kcordes

Contiguous USA, California, High Sierra

Mt. Ritter, West Arête.

By Claude Fiddler

The west escarpment of Mt. Ritter (13,157′) stretches over the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. This impressive wall is steep and the rock suspect, but an arête leading from Ritter Lakes basin to the summit was too hard to resist….

Hiking time: two ibuprofen.

Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Scoop

On 12.14.09, by jharlin

Routes on the west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock. Matthew Clifton photo.

Routes on the west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock. Photo by Matthew Clifton

Contiguous USA, Washington

Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Scoop.

By Stewart Matthiesen, AAC

After an early June ascent to check out and clean the more difficult pitches, we returned to Colchuck Balanced Rock (CBR) on August 9 and completed the free ascent of our new line. The Scoop (III+ 5.11c), named for the crux pitch, which looks like it was carved by a giant ice cream scoop, follows a line of beautiful cracks linked with excellent belay ledges to the right of the West Face and the Tempest….

Korean Climbers Coming Clean: A New Beginning?

On 12.14.09, by dmacdonald

Peter Jensen-Choi is an American Alpine Journal correspondent who lives in Korea; he also is an active member of the Corean Alpine Club Technical Committee and is the founder of Sanirang Alpine Networks. Last month he helped organize a symposium for Korean mountaineers entitled “How Should We View Korean High-Altitude Climbing?” The November 18 meeting, sponsored by the Korean Alpine Federations’s Academic Affairs Committee and presented by Korea’s Mountain magazine, was designed in part to examine the style of Korean high-altitude climbs, which traditionally have relied on large teams, fixed rope, and other heavy tactics. Before the meeting, Jensen-Choi surveyed leading mountaineers and editors for their opinions on Korean climbing. Here is his report on this remarkable meeting.

Northwest Ren Land, various ascents

On 12.11.09, by jharlin

Pk. 1,636m from the east, showing the line of the first ascent. Dominic Southgate Greenland, East Coast Greenland

Northwest Ren Land, various ascents

By Dominic Southgate, U.K.

…The following day we headed up-fjord on a 250km boat journey to a previously unvisited area in Northwest Ren Land. The journey took around six hours, after which we spent a day ferrying loads across a glacier to establish base camp 30 minutes’ walk from the coast. The next day we explored the two main glaciers of the area, looking for attractive objectives….