2010: Huantsan West, Les Trois Mousquetaires; Huantsan North, Illusion. By Sophie Denis, AAC

Illusion, on Huantsan North. Sophie Denis

Les Trois Mousquetaires, on Huantsan West. Sophie Denis

Beto Pinto on Les Trois Mousquetaires, Huantsan West. Sophie Denis

(Back to: South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca)

Huantsan West, Les Trois Mousquetaires; Huantsan North, Illusion.

By Sophie Denis, AAC

From the Rajucolta Valley on July 20, Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and I crossed the moraine onto the glacier, navigated extensive crevasses, and camped at approximately 5,100m. The next day, carrying little, we approached the bottom of the face. It was a mess. Hip-deep snow made trail-breaking a challenge and increased the crevasse difficulties, but we finally crossed the bergschrund and began climbing the south face of the west ridge of Huantsan’s west summit. A nice couloir, 50–60° with deep snow and loose rocks, steepened to 70°, 80°, and 90°. At the end of the last pitch, we tunneled through a hanging mushroom, continued to the summit at 7 p.m., and endured an open bivouac. We called our route Les Trois Mousquetaires.

After resting all day, on July 22 at 8:00 p.m., we started climbing to Huantsan’s north summit. We passed some crevasses and climbed three easy (50°) pitches, then continued past some loose rocks and up a couloir of good 70–80° ice to pass a big mushroom on the ridge. We summited Huantsan North after 12 hours of climbing, named our route Illusion, and descended to our previous night’s open bivouac.

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