2011: Dudh Ganga Col (5,350m) and Deotoli Col (5,400m), first ascents. By Anindya Mukherjee, India

Upper Ronti Glacier and Trisul (7,120m). Route followed on historic first ascent of Trisul in 1907 finished up left skyline ridge. West ridge (right skyline) drops to Ronti Saddle, first crossed in 1936 by Eric Shipton. Next col west was first climbed from the far side in 1927 by Tom Longstaff and Hugh Ruttledge. From it ridge rises toward Nanda Ghunti (6,309m), well off picture to the right. Anindya Mukherjee

Unclimbed Berthatoli North (5,818m), seen from Deotoli Col to north. Anindya Mukherjee

Looking southwest from Dudh Ganga Col. Corniced peak left of rocky peak in center is Nanda Ghunti (6,309m, left skyline is route of first ascent by Swiss in 1947), while peak to right is Ronti (6,063m, first climbed in 1955 from southeast) with its unclimbed northeast face in partial profile. Anindya Mukherjee

North face of Trisul (7,120m) from a 4,700m camp at foot of Dudh Ganga Col. Anindya Mukherjee

Looking northeast onto Ramani Glacier and, from left to right, Hanuman (6,075m), Purbi Dunagiri (6,489m) through Bagini Col, Changabang (6,864m), Kalanka (6,931m), Rishi Kote (6,236m), and Rishi Pahar(6,992m). Anindya Mukherjee

(Back to: Asia, India, Uttarankhand (Uttaranchal) Garhwal)

By Anindya Mukherjee, India

Dudh Ganga Col (5,350m) and Deotoli Col (5,400m), first ascents.

Lhakpa Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Pemba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, and I reached a previously unvisited col on the ridge north of Berthatoli Himal. West of Lata we headed south and crossed two passes traditionally used by shepherds to access the Ronti Valley. We crossed the Ronti Valley to the east and reached a col, which is on the ridge northwest of unclimbed Berthatoli North (6,352m). We named it Dudh Ganga Col. We then descended the far side to an unnamed glacier, crossed it, and climbed to a second pass on the ridge north of Berthatoli North, which we named Deotoli Col. Our route would provide an alternative into the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, but obeying the law of the land, we neither set foot on the valley floor nor entered the Sanctuary. Neither pass required climbing skills and could be reached by any seasoned Himalayan trekker. We hope the accompanying photos will encourage mountaineers to consider unclimbed objectives in this area.

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