(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan)
Xiaqiangla (5,470m), northeast face.
By Chiharu Yoshimura, Japanese Alpine Club, translated by Tom Nakamura
East face of Xiaqiangla and unnamed peak (right) seen from the shores of Da Haize. Route of first ascent of Xiaqiangla climbed hidden face behind steep right skyline ridge. Chiharu Yoshimura
Xiaqiangla from the northeast. The summit to the right appears to be unspecified on maps, though another off picture to the right is marked as 5,240m. The north ridge attempt climbed from the broad snowy col between the two mountains. Peaks 2 and 3 on the north ridge are marked. Chiharu Yoshimura
A foreshortened image of Xiaqiangla's ca 400m northeast face. Peak 2 and Peak 3 on the north ridge are marked. (1) Matsushima-Sato Route and (2) upper section of their descent on north ridge. (3) north ridge attempted by Kato and Yoshimura over Peak 3. Chiharu Yoshimura
On the summit headwall of the northeast face. Chiharu Yoshimura Collection
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I began to wonder what should be my next target. It didn’t take long to find a mountain that fitted my criteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful, and with easy access.
Xiaqiangla is an outstanding peak in the northern Daxue Shan, west of Danba and the Dadu River. Only Kiyoshi Kawajiri, Tom Nakamura, and Tadao Shintani had accessed these mountains before. [Nakamura's photo of Xiaqiangla appeared in AAJ 2009.] The peak is alluring not only because it is a fine unclimbed pyramid, but also due to the surrounding area, the so-called Valley of Beauty, where unique local Tibetan culture features fine and historic art, literature, and architecture, including stone towers that are typical of the Dadu River Basin.
Our expedition took place from April 24 – May 9 and comprised Mitsuru Kato, Hiroshi Matsushima, Ken Sato, and me, all from the JAC. We first drove from Chengdu to Dang Ling (3,300m) via Danbu, and set up base camp on the shores of Da Haizi at 4,350m after an eight-hour walk to the west-southwest After reconnaissance we placed an advanced base at 5,020m and attempted two separate routes: the northeast face and the north ridge. The former would involve climbing a snow couloir leading toward the north ridge and then striking up left on a steep rock wall leading directly to the summit. The route up the north ridge started from the north col and was also steep, with rocky gendarmes resembling a dinosaur’s back. It featured a subsidiary summit (Peak 3) and then a smaller rock pyramid (Peak 2) before rising to the main top.
On May 2 we started from advanced base at 6 a.m. Matsushima and Sato climbed the northeast face and reached the main summit at 2:40 p.m. Mixed/rock climbing in the upper section was III-IV and their GPS gave an altitude of 5,497m. Kato and I got as far as Peak 3 on the north ridge but had to give up at that point due to lack of time. Both parties grouped at the col between Peaks 2 and 3, then descended the couloir together, reaching advanced base at 8:40 p.m. Tom Nakamura notes that it is now impossible to ignore the serious environmental destruction to the Dadu River region caused by accelerated West China Development projects. A huge dam is under construction near Luding.
