2010: Daogou West, by Y. Dongdong

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Daogou West (5,422m), northeast couloir and north ridge.

By Yan Dongdong, China

Looking southwest towards Daogou (5,465m, left) and Daogou West (5,422m) from the north side of the upper Changping Valley. The 2008 Chinese route is marked. Daogou was climbed from the far side by an American team in 2005, while an Australian-New Zealand pair climbed Daogou West from the far side in 2006. Jeremy Thornley collection


On October 23-24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West via a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge (a bivouac was made halfway up the couloir). The team approached from the upper Changping Valley and sited base camp immediately below the face.

Kester Brown and Vaughn Thomas made the only previous ascent of this summit, climbing the south face from the Shuangqiao Valley in September 2006 (AAJ 2007).