Part of Holtedahlfjella, showing peaks climbed and named by Austrian expedition. (3) Roteck. (4) Austrian Peak. (5) Tiroler Spitze. (6) Styria. (7) Alexey Turchin. (8) Kamelbuckel. (9) Galileo Nunatak. (10) Steinskar Nunatak. (11) Galileo. (12) Peak of Silent Solitude. Christoph Höbenreich
(Back to: Antarctica, Queen Maud Land)
Orvin Fjella, various ascents.
By Christoph Höbenreich, Austria
The first Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land comprised Karl Pichler, Paul Koller and me. As an IFMGA qualified mountain- and skiguide, geographer and polar explorer I was lucky enough to initiate, organize and lead this outstanding expedition, which was my 11th polar expedition so far. Our goal was to ski east from the well-known Ulvetanna Group in the Fenriskjeften to the Holtedahlfjella, Kurzefjella, and Conradfjella, where we hoped to climb virgin summits. In November we flew from Cape Town to Novo Airbase by ALCI-Iljushin Il-76 and from there were lifted by Twin Otter to our starting point near Holtanna base camp. Our route, traversing some of the most spectacular rock and ice scenery in the world, was challenging. On the way we climbed 15 summits, of which 11 were first ascents.
Peak Styria (left) and Tiroler Spitze. Paul Koller on connecting ridge just left of Tiroler Spitze. Christoph Höbenreich
We repeated Tungespissen (2,277 m), Mundlauga (2,455 m), and Sandneshatten (2,208 m). The first two, relatively close to Ulvetanna, were first climbed in January 1994 by Norwegians (AAJ 1996), the last in 2006, again by Norwegians (AAJ 2007). Sandneshatten in the Conradfjella involved friction climbing on granite at UIAA II and III, though the final few meters to the summit were exposed and UIAA V. We used the rope for both ascent and descent.
Our most prominent first ascents and new named peaks were Tiroler Spitze (2,201m, S 71°52’15.8’’, E 8°55’00.6’’); Austrian Peak (2,177m, S 71°52’27.9’’, E 8°54’50.6’’); Peak Alexey Turchin (2,232m, S 71°51’19.8’’, E 9°00’12.7’’); Kamelbuckel (Camel’s Hump, 2,184m, S 71°50’28.1’’, E 9°00’01.5‘‘); Mt. Galileo (2,528m, S 71°55’23.6’’, E 9°01’38.8’’), and Peak of Silent Solitude (2,550m, S 71°54’59.2’’, E 9°03’28.1’’). Tiroler Spitze involved real rock climbing up to UIAA IV; we had to remove our warm expedition outers and climb in inner thermal boots. Other summits were not difficult; ascents and descents were on ski or foot, with or without crampons. Some involved easy to intermediate rock scrambles. We completed all ascents during November.
Rappeling from Tiroler Spitze. Snowy humped peak behind is Kamelbuckel, while rock peaks to left belong to Vinten-Johannsenegga Massif. Christoph Höbenreich
We had outstanding weather for our three weeks in the area, with brilliant blue skies and only one day when we were hit by a severe katabatic storm that produced winds in excess of 100km/hour. Daytime temperatures were between -15° and -20°C; the lowest we recorded at night was -36°C. However, the air is dry, and while skiing during daylight hours in strong sunshine we could be sweating at -15°C.
This was my 11th polar expedition, and with new ideas I am inspired to return in the near future. If you are interested in taking part in an exploratory ski trip, please contact me at christoph.hoebenreich@aon.at
Peak Alexey Turchin was ascended via snow slope from left to right. Big wall awaits future parties. Christoph Höbenreich
Two peaks in Skorvestallen Massif, first climbed by Austrians in 2009: Peak of Silent Solitude (left) and Mount Galileo. Christoph Höbenreich
(2jk 100201)
