Route followed by Fowler and Turnbull on 1,100m (ED) west face of Gojung (right), and their descent north over Peak 6,264m and down glaciated west flank of frontier ridge. Mick Fowler

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

By Mick Fowler, Alpine Club, U.K.

Kanti Himal, Gojung (6,310m), west face.

As you would expect, the climbing history of this valley is sparse. The first mountaineers to carry out reconnaissance were most likely Mallorcans in 2008. Their goal was to inspect unclimbed Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), situated on the Tibetan border in the northeast corner of the valley, for a serious attempt the following year. However, they noticed a 6,310m peak on the frontier ridge to the south, which they described as “outstanding” and dubbed it Mugu Chuli, being unaware that it had the local name Gojung…(read more)

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

By Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal, and Richard Salisbury, The Himalayan Database.

Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m), attempts.

Veteran Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, with a Japanese companion and a Sherpa, planned to attempt Roma (5,407m), southwest of Saipal, and Danphe Sail, north of Kanjiroba on the Tibet border. Ohnishi had wanted to attempt Danphe Sail during an expedition in West Nepal in 2009 (AAJ 2010)…(read more)

Kanjiroba, with elegant northwest ridge falling from south summit (6,883m). Japanese climbed “northwest ridge” of Kanjiroba in 1979, but their account states they made Camp 3 (6,580m) before Kanjiroba North (rounded shoulder at left end of north ridge, 6,858m, unclimbed) and traversed below it, implying that they followed left skyline ridge in image. Other four ascents of Kanjiroba South followed south face and southeast ridge, first climbed in 1970 by Japanese. Paulo Grobel

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

By Paulo Grobel, France. Translated by Todd Miller

Sanctuary Peak (6,025m) and Hopeless Peak (6,036m), north ridges from Japanese Pass.

Protected on all sides by Shey Phoksundo National Park, the Kanjiroba massif is wild and rarely visited. No trails or trekking itineraries go near it, but many summits are open for climbers, and currently permits are free. The route from Surket to Jumla, as well as a paved landing strip at Jumla, aid in organizing expeditions to this region, which is far removed from the usual centers of tourism…(read more)

Changwatang from north-northwest. French party crossed small glacier and climbed long snow spur back right to crest of northwest ridge, which they followed left to summit. Paul Grobel

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

By Paulo Grobel, France, translated by Todd Miller

Changwatang (6,130m), east spur and northwest ridge.

The Limi Valley, in a hidden corner of northwest Nepal, is an exotic place. It has a community comprised of three ethnic Tibetan villages—Jang, Waljie, and Til. These villages are difficult to reach from Nepal and completely cut off during the long months of winter. A forgotten valley.

On September 20, 2011, a dramatic change came to Jang…(read more)

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal, Humla Region, Kanti Himal)

Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt.

By Tsunemichi Ikeda, Japanese Alpine News

Kojichuwa Chuli lies at the head of the Kojichuwa Khola above Mugu Village, and the peak was attempted with little success in 2008 and 2009 by Spanish and Japanese climbers (AAJ 2010). On May 16, after a six-day trek, Ken Fujikawa, Michihiro Honda, Yuta Kawahara, Satoshi Kimoto, and Ayano Suzuki established base camp at 3,600m above Mugu. Subsequently, an advanced base was placed at 4,600m, and Camp 1 at 5,100m, before the route up to the 5,625m col on the northwest ridge was fixed by Sherpas. This ridge forms the Nepal-Tibet border…. (read more)

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal, Humla Region, Changla Himal)

Changla (6,563m), southwest face of north-northwest ridge, then north face.

By Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal

Uncertain of the best line to take on unclimbed Changla, Hirofumi Kobayashi (leader), Seiya Nakasukasa, Yuta Shibayama, and Naoki Yamaguchi approached up the Chula Khola, which descends from the 5,293m Changla La on the Tibetan border north-northwest of the mountain. They made base camp at 4,700m, and then from a higher, temporary camp spent four–five days observing the southwest face of the long north-northwest ridge rising from the Changla La. Their decision was to climb directly to the crest of this ridge, then move onto the north face, ascending this to the northeast ridge.

Bad weather kept them in base camp until September 21. Without Sherpa support they made Camp 1 that day at 5,500m and, on the 22nd, started work on the mixed rock and ice face leading to the crest of the ridge. On the 26th they established Camp 2 at a 6,090m col on this ridge. At 4 a.m. on the 27th the four left Camp 2 for a summit push…. (read more)

Bikrum Singh, a young Nepalese guide, enjoying the superb ambience of the upper northeast ridge of Saipal. In the middle distance the fine, triangular snow/ice pyramid is unclimbed Peak 5,638m: the more rocky peak to its left is 5,696m, also unclimbed. In the far distance lie the peaks straddling the Nepal-Tibet border. From left to right; Changla, Gorek and Kanjiroba Himals. Paulo Grobel

Saipal (7,030m), northeast ridge to Saipal East Humla (6,925m).

By Paolo Grobel, France

In Nepal’s geopolitical landscape, the west has a special place. West Nepal was one starting point of the Maoist revolution, and forms a perfect example of the dramatic imbalance of economic development and tourism that exist within the country. Climbers and trekkers can be counted on the fingers of one hand, and mountaineering in this remote area has a different dimension from the popular regions of Nepal…. Saipal is little visited, and in the 12 years since the previous ascent, conditions have changed markedly…. (read more)

Looking northeast into upper Kojichuwa Valley. (A) Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), (B) unnamed ca 6,300m spire, (C) Mugu Chuli (6,310m), (D) Churau (Kanti Himal, 6,419m) and (E) unnamed 6,047m peak. Nick Colton

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

Nalakankar

Kanti Himal, Kojichuwa Valley, exploration.

By Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information provided by Nick Colton and Julian Freeman-Attwood

The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick Colton, Ed Douglas, Julian Freeman-Attwood, and Rob Greaves. In 2007 Colton and Freeman-Attwood had been part of a team that explored the neighboring Koji Valley and climbed two peaks on the frontier ridge west-southwest of Rongla South (AAJ 2008). In April ’09 they established base camp lower in the valley than the Mallorcans and explored the area, climbing six small peaks of 4,900m-5,400m. The first two were on the southeast side of the lower main valley more or less opposite base camp, while the remaining four, including the smallest, lay farther up on the opposite side of the valley, and to the southwest of the Spanish base camp…. (more text and photos)

Unnamed, unclimbed 6,047m peak on southeast side of Kojichuwa Valley. Josue Roibal

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal)

Nalakankar

Kanti Himal, Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt.

By Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, Josue Roibal, Spain, Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal, and Richard Salisbury, The Himalayan Database.

In October 2008 José Maria Alvarez, Antonio Fernandez, and Josue Roibal, all from the Spanish island of Mallorca, flew via Nepalgunj to Talcha (2,748m, three hours walk from Rara Lake), and trekked via Mugu to the Kojichuwa Valley (possibly also referred to as Gokichuwa). Their goal was to reconnoiter a route on Kojichuwa Chuli for an ascent the following spring. Alvarez, Fernandez, and Da Dorche Sherpa climbed to the Kojichuwa La (5,550m) and moved a short distance up the frontier ridge to 5,625m, from where they could see that to continue to the summit of Kojichuwa Chuli would be hard. After noting that the Tibetan flanks looked relatively gentle, they returned to base camp and climbed a small (ca 5,400m) peak above the valley before returning home. One outstanding peak noticed during this exploration was the unnamed 6,310m summit on the frontier ridge immediately south of Kojichuwa Chuli, which they dubbed Mugu Chuli…. (read more)

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, West Nepal, Kanti Himal)

Kanti Himal, Kaptang (5,965m), north face; Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt.

By Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal, and Richard Salisbury, The Himalayan Database.

The prolific mountain explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi and four companions visited the Kanti Himal in June. Their aim was the first ascent of three peaks: Kaptang, Kojichuwa Chuli, and Danphe Sail (6,103m)—peaks first opened in 2002 or 2003 and, apart from Kojichuwa Chuli, previously unattempted. They flew to Nepalgunj and then to Jumla, arriving on May 20. From here they trekked north to Rara Lake and then to the hamlet of Mugu, continuing up the Mugu Valley to establish base camp on June 2 at 4,300m. On the 8th they made an advanced camp at 5,492m, south of Kaptang, which lies on the frontier ridge southeast of the Namla La…. (read more)